Helen, our sweet, goofy golden retriever, has fallen into the habit of looking under every single parked car that we walk by in Abu Dhabi. And let me tell you, there are lots of parked cars in Abu Dhabi. She is convinced that a cat is lurking underneath every single parked car, keeping cool in the shade. But she's mistaken. Only one out of five parked cars in Abu Dhabi has a cat lurking underneath it, keeping cool in the shade.
I'm pretty sure it's instinct taking over and Helen suddenly feels the urge to eat a cat for dinner, or at least give it a good chase. But sometimes I wonder if she just wants a friend, especially when she flattens herself out flat as a pancake by a cat sheltering car, puts her head down low, and wags her tail back and forth excitedly. Either way, one of these days she's going to get a good scratch across her nose. Maybe that will teach her to just let the cats be.
Helen was the most stressful part of our move to Abu Dhabi. For a while we thought we would leave her with friends or family in the states. But, after much debate, we decided she would be happiest staying with us and we, in turn, would be happier if she was with us. I think we made the right decision, despite the long trip, hot weather, and cultural differences.
Helen and I have seen the good, the bad, and the ugly on our walks in Abu Dhabi. Since we live in an apartment, we take anywhere from 3 to 5 walks a day, usually along the closest patch of grass towards the Corniche. We see plenty. In general, Muslims and the Emirati do not like dogs. According to the Q'uran, dogs are filthy dirty animals. Some believe that a black dog is the devil incarnate. So much for man's best friend. When we go on walks I always put on a happy face, keep the leash in check, and hope for the best.
Sometimes when pedestrians see Helen walking towards them they simply cross the street well before we cross paths and keep going. This can actually be quite convenient for me as some of the sidewalks around here are so narrow there's only room for one. Sometimes people just stare at her, or scowl at her. But I would rather have people not worry about Helen or dogs in general. In fact, it has become a mission of mine to change people's attitudes regarding dogs around here from a negative one to a positive one. And Helen is the dog to do it, one person at a time.
There are a few other dogs as pets around here, but Helen is definitely on the larger side and a bit of a novelty. Sometimes, quite randomly, people will ask to take a picture of Helen. If they're not afraid, they might ask to take a picture WITH Helen and gingerly strike a pose. Nothing like a bunch of teenage dishdasha wearing boys egging each other on. I always encourage it because I want them to realize that Helen could be their best friend. Our maid that comes once a week claimed she couldn't sleep the night before she had to clean our apartment after the dog moved in. She was petrified by the thought. Once she met the dog, though, her opinion quickly changed. It's hard to be afraid of something that is so genuinely happy and just wants love and affection.
We get interesting reactions from people driving by. Entire bus loads of Indian and Pakistani construction workers will lean towards the curb side of the bus just to look at Helen. Sometimes they lean so much I think the bus might tip over. Sometimes men wearing national dress driving by in fancy cars will open a window and make whistling or tongue clicking noises and smile at the dog. These might be the same people that cross the street if they are walking, but they gain confidence while sitting safely in their cars. Sometimes PEOPLE bark at Helen. She stares at them blankly and does not bark back.
The dog in our apartment building elevator has caused some interesting reactions. More often than not, people will politely refuse to get into the elevator if we are already in it and wait for the next one. Once I startled a group of burly contractors when they tried to get in the elevator before I had a chance to get out. They were suddenly trying to hide behind each other to avoid the dog. Can you imagine a footbal team doing this? I couldn't help but laugh out loud. Then, fortunately, they laughed too, realizing how ridiculous they looked. Once Helen startled a family of four. They recoiled simultaneously from the elevator door like Helen was an evil jack-in-the-box and then laughed when they realized it was just a silly clown/goofy golden retriever. Once while exiting the elevator, Helen made a toddler scream bloody murder. I felt sorry for the toddler to already have such a fearful attitude and for Helen who had done nothing at all except for wagging her tail. I do my best to keep Helen as far away as possible from those that show concern.
I have a secret weapon in my mission to improve the canine image around here - a cute 10 year old boy from Libya named Ahmed. He absolutely adores Helen. If he sees us during a walk, he will come charging down the corniche to say hello, give her lots of hugs, take over the leash and run back and forth with her for a few minutes. This is great fun all around and gives Helen a little more exercise than usual. Ahmed has figured out where we live and occasionally stops by our apartment to see if we want to walk the dog with him. Sometimes he shows up with friends that have various comfort levels with dogs. They always leave with a better attitude toward dogs. So my one person at a time approach is starting to work. Eight million more to go.
There has been just one truly upsetting incident. While I was waiting in front of our apartment for the girls to return from a walk with Helen, our American neighbors stopped in the hallway to chat with me. Then another neighbor from the gulf region was walking by and stopped to say hello to the American husband and shake his hand (ignoring both me and the American wife). While the men were talking, my girls returned and Helen brushed up against the man's trousered leg as he was in the middle of the path back into our apartment. This outraged the man. He yelled at everyone that the dog should not touch him and stormed back to his apartment. I have since learned that a devout muslim man cannot touch a dog (or a woman other than his wife) after ablution. My guess is he was angry because he now had to go back home and take a shower. Must. Show. Respect.
Sometimes I pretend that instead of Helen, I'm walking a giant tiger on a leash. I might be afraid too if someone came towards me on the sidewalk with a giant tiger and nothing but a thin piece of leather to keep the beast in control. Maybe this is the way some people feel when they see Helen. But, after my recent one and only cockroach encounter in Abu Dhabi, I have come to a different realization. That enormous cockroach was a filthy discusting animal and made me want to go take a shower. Maybe, for some people, the notion of a giant tiger is far too noble. Perhaps our unhappy neighbor considered Helen to be a giant cockroach on a leash. He is an extreme example, but I'm sure there are more like him that we pass on our walks. For me, of course, she is nothing of the sort and will always be just our sweet, goofy golden retriever. I don't think I can change that man's opinion, but I'm still working on the rest.
